BARBARA I GONGINI
PRIMORDIAL IS PRIMITIVE
DARK SHADOW by RICK OWENS
OXS RUBBER SOUL
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Unknown Online Store | Categorie prodotto RICK OWENS
BARBARA I GONGINI, 10SEI0OTTO, MINOAR, ANEWCROSS, CINZIA ARAIA, NUMERO00, THOM KROM, MIDDLE.P, PRIMORDIAL IS PRIMITIVE,
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Of all the fashion industry’s many colourful characters, it is hard to find a more unique spirit than Rick Owens (born Richard Saturnino Owens on November 18, 1962). Over the course of his 22-year career, the California-born, Paris-based creative has managed to build an ever-flourishing, multi-million-dollar business out of sheer subversion and shrewd know-how, never once sacrificing his desire for independence or compromising his artistic vision. Every part of Owens’ vast empire is constructed in his own, distinct vernacular – from his personal style, to his inimitable design aesthetic centred on draping, texture and silhouette, to his showstopping runway spectacles.
The propagation of positive energy is very important to Owens, who describes his runway shows as a means of expressing “as much positive energy as I can get out there while I’m on Earth.” This entails “looking at different angles of humanity and picking out moments of beauty that might be overlooked. Owens has long acknowledged architecture and its utopian ideals as one of his greatest influences.
Owens’ furniture is defined by an angular monumentality and increasingly sculptural form, and, like his garments, draws heavily on architectural influences, including Brutalism and German World War II bunkers. Materials run the gamut from the luxurious (rock crystal, alabaster, Carrara marble) through the everyday (plywood, concrete, fibreglass), often combined to create striking juxtapositions – wooden chairs sprouting moose antlers, for instance.
When it comes to historical references, Owens is happily indiscriminate, lifting elements from a variety of epochs and genres and adapting them in accordance with his specific vision.
Owens is fearsomely independent when it comes to business: every product sold under his name is designed by him personally, he never reveals any of his collections to anyone in his company until a couple of days before each show.
Perhaps most iconic of all Rick Owens’ designs is his leather biker jacket, complete with angular flaps and an asymmetric zip, and crafted from washed leather so that it clings to the body like a “second skin”. The jacket formed part of Owens’ very first collection, realised while he and Lamy were living in the Chateau Marmont, just down the hall from Helmut Newton.
The designer famously eschews traditional advertising strategies, declaring that “(it) pulls you more deeply into the fashion system than I’m willing to go.” Instead carefully curated branding is his modus operandi, extending from his immediately recognisable house imagery, shot by photographer Luke Mayes, through his distinctively “Rick Owens” diffusion lines (Rick Owens Lilies, DRKSHDW and Rick Owens Hun) and even his own personal uniform. “It’s about committing yourself completely to an aesthetic throwing yourself into it and not looking back. In all facets of your life, if you’re going to do it, go all the way.”
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